The Amstel: from the Blauwbrug to De Omval
The river the city is named for — the skinny bridge lit at dusk, the locks, and the east-bank café row. Walked and written by the editor.

1. Blauwbrug
Start on the *Blauwbrug*, the grand stone bridge over the Amstel modelled loosely on Paris's Pont Alexandre III — ornate lamp standards, fish carvings, the lot. Look south down the river; that's your whole walk in one view.

2. Magere Brug
The *Magere Brug* — 'skinny bridge' — a white wooden double drawbridge that is the most painted crossing in the city. Come at dusk: it's strung with lights and the whole thing reflects in the black water. Wait for it to lift if you can.

3. Koninklijk Theater Carré
On the east bank, the domed *Carré*, built in 1887 for a permanent circus and still a theatre. You're not going in; you're noting how it anchors the bend of the river. Keep south along the water.

4. Amstelsluizen
The 1674 *Amstelsluizen* — the locks still closed nightly to flush fresh water through the canals. A working piece of the city's plumbing, three centuries on. Cross to the east bank here for the café row.

5. De Ysbreeker
On the *Weesperzijde*, the east-bank quay, *De Ysbreeker* is the grand café everyone aims for — a wide terrace right on the Amstel. The whole row drinks facing the water; join it for one before the long stretch south.

6. Berlagebrug
Berlage's 1932 bridge, all brick and sculpture and a small tower — the architectural full stop on the river before the modern city. Cross or stay east; the towers of *De Omval* are now ahead.

7. De Omval
The river bends a last time at *De Omval*, a cluster of glass towers where the old city gives way entirely to the new. A clean modern ending to an old-water walk. Amstel station — metro and trains — is a few minutes on.

The Amstel: from the Blauwbrug to De Omval