Amsterdamse Bos: the forest the unemployed built
A two-kilometre rowing course, a goat farm, the big meadows, and a wood dug by hand in the 1930s. Walked and written by the editor.

1. Bosbaan, east head
Start at the near end of the rowing course — two straight kilometres of water cut dead level, the oldest purpose-built regatta course of its kind. Walk the south bank; on a weekend there'll be eights going past at speed.

2. Bosbaan, west head
The far end, where the lane stops and the wood begins. By here the rowers are tiny and the city is entirely gone; this is the quietest two kilometres in greater Amsterdam.

3. Geitenboerderij Ridammerhoeve
An organic goat farm in the middle of the wood, free to walk into, with kids — the four-legged kind — underfoot. Buy the goat's-milk ice cream; it's the reason half the families here came.

4. The big meadows
Open grass after the close trees — room to lie down and lose an hour. Bring something to sit on; the Bos was dug to be used, not just looked at.

5. Bostheater
The open-air theatre in a clearing, in use through the summer and quietly atmospheric the rest of the year. Look in even off-season; the empty stage in the trees is its own small thing.

6. Grote Vijver
The big lake near the main entrance, where the boats go out and the walk winds down. Land back near the Bosbaan head; bus 357 runs from the Van Nijenrodeweg edge.

Amsterdamse Bos: the forest the unemployed built