This is two walks that belong together: the prettiest canal in Amsterdam and the best street to eat your way along, laid end to end. Three kilometres from the water at Café Papeneiland to the city gate at the Haarlemmerpoort, with a courtyard from the founding of New York in the middle.
Start with coffee at Papeneiland, a 17th-century brown café on the corner, then walk the Brouwersgracht west. People call it the prettiest canal in the city and for once that's just true — the old pakhuizen, the brewers' warehouses, still carry their shutters and hoist beams above the water. Cut across to the Herenmarkt and the courtyard of the West-Indisch Huis, the 1617 West India Company seat where the order was given, in 1625, to fortify Manhattan.
Then the food: Haarlemmerstraat and its continuation the Haarlemmerdijk, a single long street of bakeries, cheesemongers and roasters that has somehow kept the chains mostly out. Eat as you go. The Neoclassical Haarlemmerpoort of 1840 ends the street; the tram is waiting beneath it.


