Oost: the park, the reckoning, and the market
The slavery monument, the Van Gogh scream, and a six-day street market end to end. Walked and written by the editor.

1. Oosterpark, west entrance
Come in from the Weesperplein side and let the park open up — old trees, water, the curve of paths laid out in the 1890s on what was once the city's edge. The walk earns its market by going through the green first.

2. Nationaal Monument Slavernijverleden
Erwin de Vries' bronze — chains, a figure breaking through, a woman reaching up — unveiled by the Queen in 2002. This is where Keti Koti is marked every July. Read it left to right; the order is the argument.

3. De Schreeuw
Jeroen Henneman's steel head — a scream from one side, silence from the other — for Theo van Gogh, killed a few steps away on the Linnaeusstraat in 2004. A monument to saying what you think, placed where the saying of it got someone killed.

4. Wereldmuseum Amsterdam
The vast 1920s pile on the park's edge, the old *Tropenmuseum* until 2023 and now the *Wereldmuseum*. You don't have to go in to feel the building doing its colonial-era throat-clearing; the façade alone is the stop.

5. Dappermarkt
One of the city's great street markets, Monday to Saturday, the full length of the *Dapperstraat* — Surinamese, Turkish, Moroccan stalls, fish, fruit, fabric. Walk it end to end and buy lunch from whichever queue is longest.

6. Station Amsterdam Muiderpoort
The market spills you out near the *Muiderpoort* — the 18th-century city gate Napoleon rode through in 1811 — and the station of the same name takes you home. End with the gate; it's a better full stop than the platform.

Oost: the park, the reckoning, and the market