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Oudemanhuispoort: the book arcade to the flea market
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Oudemanhuispoort: the book arcade to the flea market

A covered arcade of second-hand booksellers, a leaning Renaissance corner, and the oldest flea market in the city.

Photo: Txllxt TxllxT / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Distance

2.9 km

Time

~ 70 min

Difficulty

Easy

End

Waterlooplein metro (M51/M53/M54)

Best at

morning

Right now
20°C· Overcast

Open in Maps for turn-by-turn, or take it offline as GPX.

The university quarter does two things at once: it reads, and it sells. This is a weekday morning walk, when the book arcade is open and the flea market is setting out its stalls — come on a Sunday and you get neither.

Start at the Rokin and find the Oudemanhuispoort, a covered passage lined with booksellers' cabinets since 1879. Walk it slowly, then out at the Grimburgwal, where the Huis aan de Drie Grachten — the House on the Three Canals — holds a corner three waterways deep, much as it did in 1610. From here the route loosens: across to Staalstraat for its two little bridges and the Droog design rooms, then up to the Zuiderkerk, de Keyser's 1611 tower that Monet thought worth a canvas.

The last act is Waterlooplein, the city's oldest flea market, Monday to Saturday only. Dig through it, then walk round the back of the Stopera to where the Amstel widens and the light comes off the water. The metro home is built into the building.

The route

On the map.

Elevation

23 m·23 m·210 m ASL

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

  1. 01
    1

    Oudemanhuispoort

    Come up at the Rokin and walk east to the covered passage that cuts between two canals. Booksellers have kept cabinets along it since 1879, when they were turned out of the Botermarkt. Weekdays they're open and the arcade smells of old paper; come on a Sunday and you'll find a quiet, empty tunnel instead.

  2. 02
    2

    Huis aan de Drie Grachten

    Step out at the Grimburgwal and the House on the Three Canals stands where three waters meet, a stepped-gable corner from around 1610 that has barely moved since. Stand on the little bridge and take the whole junction in; this is the medieval street plan working exactly as drawn.

  3. 03
    3

    Staalstraat

    A short street of two humpback bridges and good shopfronts. *Droog*, the design collective that made the Dutch look, keeps its Amsterdam space here at number 7b — go in for the courtyard even if you buy nothing.

  4. 04
    4

    Zuiderkerk

    Hendrick de Keyser's Southern Church, finished in 1611, the first Protestant church built for the new faith and the tower Monet later painted. You can usually climb it in season; if not, the churchyard gate frames it well enough.

  5. 05
    5

    Waterlooplein market

    The oldest flea market in the city, running Monday to Saturday — it's dark on Sundays, so don't come then. Work the stalls slowly for old bicycle bells, army surplus and the occasional real find buried under the tat.

  6. 06
    6

    The Stopera, on the Amstel

    The combined town hall and opera house everyone argued about, with a riverside terrace at the back where the Amstel opens out. Walk round to the water, then drop down to the Waterlooplein metro right beside it.

Good to know

Before you go.

How long is the Oudemanhuispoort: the book arcade to the flea market walk?
About 2.9 km — roughly 70 minutes at an unhurried pace, plus however long you linger.
Where does it start and end?
It starts at Rokin metro (M52) and ends at Waterlooplein metro (M51/M53/M54).
Is it free?
Yes. It's a self-guided route — free to follow, with no guide to book and nothing to pay.
When is it best?
It's best in the morning, and especially on a weekday.