The university quarter does two things at once: it reads, and it sells. This is a weekday morning walk, when the book arcade is open and the flea market is setting out its stalls — come on a Sunday and you get neither.
Start at the Rokin and find the Oudemanhuispoort, a covered passage lined with booksellers' cabinets since 1879. Walk it slowly, then out at the Grimburgwal, where the Huis aan de Drie Grachten — the House on the Three Canals — holds a corner three waterways deep, much as it did in 1610. From here the route loosens: across to Staalstraat for its two little bridges and the Droog design rooms, then up to the Zuiderkerk, de Keyser's 1611 tower that Monet thought worth a canvas.
The last act is Waterlooplein, the city's oldest flea market, Monday to Saturday only. Dig through it, then walk round the back of the Stopera to where the Amstel widens and the light comes off the water. The metro home is built into the building.