Oudemanhuispoort: the book arcade to the flea market
A covered arcade of second-hand booksellers, a leaning Renaissance corner, and the oldest flea market in the city. Walked and written by the editor.

1. Oudemanhuispoort
Come up at the Rokin and walk east to the covered passage that cuts between two canals. Booksellers have kept cabinets along it since 1879, when they were turned out of the Botermarkt. Weekdays they're open and the arcade smells of old paper; come on a Sunday and you'll find a quiet, empty tunnel instead.

2. Huis aan de Drie Grachten
Step out at the Grimburgwal and the House on the Three Canals stands where three waters meet, a stepped-gable corner from around 1610 that has barely moved since. Stand on the little bridge and take the whole junction in; this is the medieval street plan working exactly as drawn.

3. Staalstraat
A short street of two humpback bridges and good shopfronts. *Droog*, the design collective that made the Dutch look, keeps its Amsterdam space here at number 7b — go in for the courtyard even if you buy nothing.

4. Zuiderkerk
Hendrick de Keyser's Southern Church, finished in 1611, the first Protestant church built for the new faith and the tower Monet later painted. You can usually climb it in season; if not, the churchyard gate frames it well enough.

5. Waterlooplein market
The oldest flea market in the city, running Monday to Saturday — it's dark on Sundays, so don't come then. Work the stalls slowly for old bicycle bells, army surplus and the occasional real find buried under the tat.

6. The Stopera, on the Amstel
The combined town hall and opera house everyone argued about, with a riverside terrace at the back where the Amstel opens out. Walk round to the water, then drop down to the Waterlooplein metro right beside it.

Oudemanhuispoort: the book arcade to the flea market