Overhoeks: the three-minute crossing the city ignored
A white wedge of a film museum, the IJ promenade, and the whole Amsterdam skyline lit up from the far bank. Walked and written by the editor.

1. Buiksloterweg ferry (F3 from Centraal)
Three minutes across the IJ, free, around the clock. For decades the north bank was the side Amsterdam turned its back on; now it's the side with the view. Ride it at dusk if you can — the city lights come on behind you as you go.

2. Eye Filmmuseum
A white origami wedge cantilevered over the water — the building is the exhibit before you've bought a ticket. The café-terrace faces the IJ; take a seat with the skyline if the film schedule doesn't tempt you in.

3. A'DAM Tower base
The old Shell research tower, reborn as offices, a hotel and a rooftop swing that throws you out over the edge. You don't have to go up to feel the building's nerve — stand at the foot and look straight up the shaft.

4. Tolhuistuin
A garden behind the old Shell canteen, with a terrace that catches the afternoon sun and a summer concert programme worth checking. Cut through it slowly; it's the green breath between the towers and the water.

5. IJ-bank promenade
Walk east along the water with the skyline on your right the whole way. This is the stretch the postcards never had, because nobody came here to look back at the city. Now you can. Go at golden hour.

6. Noorderpark
The promenade bends inland toward the Noordhollandsch Kanaal and the park opens up — lawns, a bathhouse-turned-café, families. The metro is on the far edge; this is where the walk lets you down gently into the neighbourhood.

Overhoeks: the three-minute crossing the city ignored