Gazi is what Athens did with the place that once lit its lamps: kept the gasworks, scrubbed the soot, and turned the furnaces into a stage. Next door lies Kerameikos, the ancient cemetery where the city buried its dead and began the road to Eleusis. Industry and antiquity, one block apart — best walked in the evening, when Technopolis lights up and the tombs empty out.
Start in the gasworks yard, between the brick retorts and the two iron gasometers. Then the plateia the nightlife claimed, Plateia Asomaton, before you drop into the quiet of the Kerameikos site — the Street of Tombs, the terrapins, the foundations of the Dipylon and the Sacred Gate. From that gate the Iera Odos (Sacred Way) once carried the mystery processions west; stand on the threshold and trace it.
The site museum holds the marble bull and the painted pottery that named the quarter. Then walk the unfashionable end of Ermou east to Thiseio, the Acropolis ahead, the old Metro 1 line home.