The Athens Riviera has to start somewhere, and it starts here, at Palaio Faliro, where the city finally turns to face its sea. A seafront park, a smart marina, and — moored among the yachts — a 1910 battleship that fought at the edge of two world wars. It's the gentlest walk on the coast and the one that explains all the others.
Start at the Trocadero seafront where the tram meets the water and walk south-west into Flisvos Park, the leafy strip between road and sea. The landmark comes quickly: the Averof, the armoured cruiser launched in 1910, now a museum ship and the only one of her kind left afloat. Go aboard if she's open; read her grey hull from the quay if not.
Behind her, Flisvos Marina lines up its yachts and its boardwalk cafés — the place the neighbourhood takes its evening stroll. Carry on to Edem, the small free beach the locals actually use, and you don't have to swim to feel you've arrived.
Then west along the promenade to the Flisvos tram. This is just the first leg; the path runs all the way to Glyfada from here.
