Piraeus: Mikrolimano and the Kastella hill
The great port's pretty side: the yacht harbour, the neoclassical hill, and the theatre with the view. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Mikrolimano
Start at the little harbour — *limani* (harbour) is the word — ringed with fishing boats, yachts, and the fish tavernas that get busy at lunch. Walk the curve of the quay before you climb; this is the postcard, and it earns it.

2. Kastella climb
Turn uphill into *Kastella*, the steep quarter of neoclassical houses stacked above the water. The lanes are narrow and the gradient is real — take the steps slowly and look back often, because the harbour drops away below you the whole way up.

3. Profitis Ilias church
The small church near the top of the hill, the *Kastella* landmark everyone steers by. Pause at the terrace beside it; you don't have to go in, but the platform gives you the first proper sweep across the bay.

4. Veakeio Theatre viewpoint
The open-air theatre cut into the brow of the hill, and the reason for the afternoon timing — the whole Saronic Gulf opens out, with the islands stacked on the horizon. The theatre stages summer performances; the view is free whenever the gate's open.

5. Pasalimani (Zea Marina)
Drop down the far side to *Pasalimani*, the big circular marina also called Zea — once an ancient war harbour, now a basin of white hulls. Walk the seafront; it's where the city takes its evening *volta* (stroll).

6. Akti Moutsopoulou seafront
Follow the Zea waterfront back towards the port along the cafés and the Hellenic Maritime Museum. A flat, easy close after the climb; the metro at the main harbour is a short walk on from here.

Piraeus: Mikrolimano and the Kastella hill