Psyrri spent a century making things — leather, rope, hardware, the unglamorous trades that kept Athens working — and then quietly turned into the place the city goes to eat and drink after dark. Both versions are still here, stacked on the same lanes. Walk it in the evening, when the workshops have shut and the squares fill.
Start in Plateia Iroon and let the noise tell you which way to go. Thread the old trade streets off Odos Aischylou first, while the ironmongers' signs still mean something, then the deliberate strangeness of Little Kook and the layered murals of Odos Pittaki — the best street-art stretch in the city, and one that rewards going slowly.
By now you'll want a table. The meze tavernas around Agion Anargyron are where the quarter actually eats; pick the busiest, order small and often. Finish drifting south toward Monastiraki as the Acropolis lights come up over the roofline. The Metro is two minutes from the church.
