Vouliagmeni is where the Athens Riviera turns smart and the coast turns wild at the same time. It's the cape at the far end of the tram-and-bus run, and it holds the strangest thing on this whole shore: a thermal lake, brackish and warm all year, sitting under a half-ring of limestone cliff. This is the walk for rock, pine, and clear water. Do it in the morning, before the cape fills.
Start at the Limni (lake), where you can swim among the little fish that clean your feet, or just walk the rim under that great wall of stone. Look up at the cliff and the cave system that feeds the warmth through. Then strike south-west along the shore towards the cape proper, pine above and sea below.
The Kavouri bays string out along the western side — small coves of sand and flat rock between pine headlands; pick one and stop. A whitewashed chapel, Agios Nikolaos, sits above the water on its own point, small and usually empty.
End back in Vouliagmeni Square, the low-key town centre, with a café and the bus home. The wild bit's behind you; the calm is the point.
