La Barceloneta is a triangle of sea, sand, and tight fishermen's streets, wedged out into the harbour on land reclaimed in the eighteenth century. It is the most lived-in barri on the water, and the walk is about the streets as much as the beach. Three and a half kilometres, a loop, best in the morning.
Start at the Palau de Mar on the harbour edge, coffee facing the marina, then turn into the grid — narrow lanes, tall thin houses, washing overhead, the whole quarter built for fishing families. Cut to the Mercat de la Barceloneta while the fish is fresh, and stop at one of its counters if you are hungry.
Mid-morning is vermut hour: a glass at a marble counter on a back lane, a dish of cockles, no English on the menu. Then out to the platja — walk the boardwalk, take the light off the water, follow the front down to the sail of the W at the tip.
Loop back along the marina to the metro. You will smell of salt; that is correct.
