La Barceloneta: the fishermen's triangle and the sand
The narrow grid, the washing strung across the alleys, the market, and the boardwalk to the sea. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Palau de Mar
The old port warehouse on the harbour edge, now the Catalan history museum, with a rank of terrace restaurants along the water below it. Start with a coffee facing the marina before you turn into the *barri* (neighbourhood).

2. The Barceloneta grid
An eighteenth-century fishermen's quarter laid out in tight parallel lanes, the buildings narrow and tall, the washing strung between balconies overhead. Pick any *carrer* (street) and walk its length; they all run to the sea.

3. Mercat de la Barceloneta
The neighbourhood market hall — fish in the morning, and a couple of well-known seafood counters where you can sit and eat what was just unloaded. Earlier is better; the good fish goes first.

4. The vermut bars
The *barri* takes its *vermut* (the midday vermouth) seriously — old marble-counter bars on the back lanes, a glass and a dish of cockles, no menu in English. Stand at the bar; that is the custom and the point.

5. Platja de la Barceloneta
The city beach proper — wide, busy, and honest about it. Walk the boardwalk rather than the sand if you are in shoes; the morning light off the water is the reason to come at this hour.

6. W Barcelona
The sail-shaped hotel that closes the spit at the far end — not a stop so much as a turning point. Walk out to it along the front, then double back along the marina towards the metro.

La Barceloneta: the fishermen's triangle and the sand