La Rambla is the most walked street in Spain and the one every guidebook tells you to skip. Both things are true. The trick is to do it early, downhill, with your bag in front of you, and to know which two metres are actually worth stopping on. Two and a half kilometres, top to harbour.
Start at Plaça de Catalunya and walk down. The upper stretch keeps its flower stalls, the last honest fragment of the old street. Then the Mercat de la Boqueria — go in before nine, while it is still a market, and take a stool at a counter at the back for breakfast.
Lower down, the Miró mosaic is set into the pavement at Pla de l'Os; almost everyone walks over it. The Gran Teatre del Liceu hides its great hall behind a plain door. Then duck through the arch into Plaça Reial for the palms, the calm, and Gaudí's first lampposts.
The street ends at Colom, pointing out to sea. Take the lift if you like heights; Drassanes is a minute away.
