Passeig de Gràcia and the modernisme
The block of discord, La Pedrera's stone wave, and three architects arguing in tile. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Casa Lleó Morera
Start at the southern corner of the famous block, on *Carrer del Consell de Cent*. Domènech i Montaner's contribution is the floral, sculptural one — look up at the first-floor gallery before the crowd pulls you north.

2. Casa Amatller
Puig i Cadafalch's stepped Flemish gable, all geometry and Catalan-Gothic restraint, sits right beside Gaudí — the contrast is the whole point. The chocolate shop in the lobby is the painless way to see the hall and the staircase.

3. Casa Batlló
Gaudí's dragon-back roof and bone-like balconies — the *Illa de la Discòrdia* gets its name from these three houses arguing across one block. You don't need to go in to get it; stand across the *passeig* in late-afternoon light and watch the facade change colour.

4. The modernista lampposts
Walk up the central pavement and notice the lamp-and-bench combinations in iron and *trencadís* mosaic, designed by Pere Falqués. Easy to walk past; once you see them you'll see them the whole length of the boulevard.

5. La Pedrera (Casa Milà)
Gaudí's wave of grey stone with not a straight line in the facade. The rooftop — the chimney warriors — is the reason to buy the ticket, but the *passeig*-level kerb gives you the famous wrought-iron balconies for free.

6. Diagonal
The boulevard meets the great avenue that slices the grid. The metro is right here; if you've any walking left, the luxury shopfronts run on for another block before the city changes register.

Passeig de Gràcia and the modernisme