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The Dreta Eixample and the passatges
architecturepocket

The Dreta Eixample and the passatges

A house with six spires, two garden-lined private rows, and the green hidden inside the grid.

Photo: MARIA ROSA FERRE / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0

Drafted by Claude — the editor hasn’t walked this one yet. We’ll update this notice once it’s been verified on the ground.

Distance

3 km

Time

~ 75 min

Difficulty

Easy

End

Girona (L4)

Best at

afternoon

Right now
29°C· Overcast

Open in Maps for turn-by-turn, or take it offline as GPX.

The right side of the Eixample hides better than the left. Behind its grander facades run the passatges — private garden rows the grid swallowed whole — and the opened-up interior courtyards. This walk, around three kilometres, is about looking sideways off the boulevards into the seams.

Start big, at the Casa de les Punxes, Puig i Cadafalch's six-spired block you can circle on all four sides, then drop to Domènech i Montaner's restrained Palau Montaner and the flower stalls of the Mercat de la Concepció — buy nothing, just walk the cut-flower aisle for the colour.

Then the real reason to be here: the passatges. Méndez Vigo first, a low private street of front gardens, then Permanyer, the gated 1860s row of villas and palms that stops you dead if the gate's open — walk to the middle and look back. End in one of the interior-block gardens, the hidden green Cerdà meant the grid to keep, with Girona metro close by.

The route

On the map.

Elevation

48 m·56 m·4362 m ASL

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

  1. 01
    1

    Casa de les Punxes

    Puig i Cadafalch's 1905 house of spires — six conical turrets and a free-standing block that looks like it wandered in from a Bavarian fairy tale. Walk a full circuit; it's the only *modernista* building in the city you can see from all four sides.

  2. 02
    2

    Palau Montaner

    Domènech i Montaner's quieter mansion on *Carrer de Mallorca*, now a government residence, its mosaic-and-stone facade glimpsed over the railings. You can't go in unannounced, but the exterior and the garden corner reward a slow pass.

  3. 03
    3

    Mercat de la Concepció

    A 19th-century iron market known for its flower stalls, several of which stay open around the clock. Buy nothing; just walk the cut-flower aisle for the colour and the smell, the antidote to a morning of grey stone facades.

  4. 04
    4

    Passatge Méndez Vigo

    The first of the hidden *passatges* — a private through-street of low houses and front gardens, a different scale entirely from the boulevards 50 metres away. Walk it slowly and quietly; people live here.

  5. 05
    5

    Passatge Permanyer

    The finest of the *passatges*: a gated garden row of two-storey villas, palms and railings, laid out in the 1860s for the well-to-do. If the gate's open, walk in to the middle and look back — the oh-my-god of the whole walk.

  6. 06
    6

    An interior-block garden

    Finish at one of the opened courtyards inside a block — the green lung Cerdà drew into every *illa* before speculation filled most of them in. A bench here, then *Girona* metro a few minutes on.