The right side of the Eixample hides better than the left. Behind its grander facades run the passatges — private garden rows the grid swallowed whole — and the opened-up interior courtyards. This walk, around three kilometres, is about looking sideways off the boulevards into the seams.
Start big, at the Casa de les Punxes, Puig i Cadafalch's six-spired block you can circle on all four sides, then drop to Domènech i Montaner's restrained Palau Montaner and the flower stalls of the Mercat de la Concepció — buy nothing, just walk the cut-flower aisle for the colour.
Then the real reason to be here: the passatges. Méndez Vigo first, a low private street of front gardens, then Permanyer, the gated 1860s row of villas and palms that stops you dead if the gate's open — walk to the middle and look back. End in one of the interior-block gardens, the hidden green Cerdà meant the grid to keep, with Girona metro close by.