The Dreta Eixample and the passatges
A house with six spires, two garden-lined private rows, and the green hidden inside the grid. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Casa de les Punxes
Puig i Cadafalch's 1905 house of spires — six conical turrets and a free-standing block that looks like it wandered in from a Bavarian fairy tale. Walk a full circuit; it's the only *modernista* building in the city you can see from all four sides.

2. Palau Montaner
Domènech i Montaner's quieter mansion on *Carrer de Mallorca*, now a government residence, its mosaic-and-stone facade glimpsed over the railings. You can't go in unannounced, but the exterior and the garden corner reward a slow pass.

3. Mercat de la Concepció
A 19th-century iron market known for its flower stalls, several of which stay open around the clock. Buy nothing; just walk the cut-flower aisle for the colour and the smell, the antidote to a morning of grey stone facades.

4. Passatge Méndez Vigo
The first of the hidden *passatges* — a private through-street of low houses and front gardens, a different scale entirely from the boulevards 50 metres away. Walk it slowly and quietly; people live here.

5. Passatge Permanyer
The finest of the *passatges*: a gated garden row of two-storey villas, palms and railings, laid out in the 1860s for the well-to-do. If the gate's open, walk in to the middle and look back — the oh-my-god of the whole walk.

6. An interior-block garden
Finish at one of the opened courtyards inside a block — the green lung Cerdà drew into every *illa* before speculation filled most of them in. A bench here, then *Girona* metro a few minutes on.

The Dreta Eixample and the passatges