Köpenick is the Berlin that forgot to become Berlin — a cobbled river-town at the meeting of the Spree and the Dahme, with a palace on an island and a folk-hero who was a con artist in a borrowed coat.
Start at the Rathaus, scene of the 1906 swindle that gave the town its legend: a cobbler in a captain's uniform commandeered a squad of real soldiers, arrested the mayor, and walked out with the cash. Berlin has loved the story ever since, mostly for what it says about Prussia and a uniform. From there, drift into the Altstadt — low houses, a church, twenty minutes of streets that don't hurry. Cross to Schloss Köpenick, the baroque water-palace on its own island in the Dahme; the decorative-arts museum is the draw, but the island and its bridge are reason enough.
Then the quiet stretch: the Kietz, the old fishermen's lane almost nobody walks, and the point where the two rivers run into one. Follow the Dahme east toward the Müggelsee as far as you like, then turn back for the tram and the S-Bahn. A town the city never quite swallowed.

