Moabit is an island — ringed by the Spree and the rail yards on every side — and it has stayed stubbornly itself while the city changed around it. This walk runs three and a half kilometres from its working heart across the river into the Hansaviertel, the strangest, greenest housing estate in Berlin.
Start on Turmstraße and go west to the Arminiusmarkthalle, the grand 1891 covered market where butchers still trade beside natural-wine bars. Walk through it. Then south to the Spree and over the Lessingbrücke, where gritty Moabit hands you to the trees — pause on the bridge; the river bends here and so does the walk.
The Hansaviertel is the middle and the marvel. In 1957 the Interbau exhibition rebuilt this bombed quarter as free-standing modernist blocks set loose among trees — Gropius, Niemeyer, Aalto, each given a single building. Wander between them off the path; that scattering was the whole idea.
End at Hansaplatz, or push south into the Tiergarten's corner toward the Siegessäule — a golden, slightly absurd full stop.
