Schöneberg: Nollendorfplatz to the market square
The old West's gay quarter, the Wednesday-and-Saturday market, and the everyday street behind it. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Nollendorfplatz
Start at the U-Bahn station. On its wall, the pink-triangle memorial plaque to the homosexual men and women persecuted under the Nazis — this is the *Regenbogenkiez*, the city's historic gay quarter. Read it before you walk on.

2. Maaßenstraße
The short street south from Nollendorfplatz — cafés, terraces, the morning unhurried. Christopher Isherwood lived a few doors off here in the early 1930s; the *Cabaret* Berlin was this exact patch of pavement.

3. Winterfeldtplatz
The big square and its market — Wednesday and Saturday, Saturday is the one. Cheese, flowers, Turkish breakfast, the whole of the old West shopping in one place. Come hungry and early; by noon it's shoulder to shoulder.

4. St. Matthias-Kirche
The brick church presiding over the square. Step inside for the quiet if the market gets too much, then carry on south.

5. Akazienstraße
The everyday shopping street — greengrocers, a butcher, bookshops, no tourists. This is where Schöneberg actually lives, and it's the better half of the walk for it.

6. Apostel-Paulus-Kirche
The tall neo-Gothic church anchoring the south end of Akazienstraße, its spire visible the whole way down. A good place to stop before the U7 at Eisenacher Straße takes you on.

Schöneberg: Nollendorfplatz to the market square