The Bayerisches Viertel looks like any prosperous, leafy Berlin quarter until you look up. On the lampposts, eighty plain signs quote the laws that stripped its Jewish residents — once so numerous the district was nicknamed 'the Jewish Switzerland' — of their lives one ordinance at a time. This is a walk about reading the street.
Start at Bayerischer Platz and walk the streets around it slowly. Stih & Schnock's Orte des Erinnerns — Places of Remembrance — is not a monument you visit but one you move through: a sign on a pole, then another, each a sentence of exclusion. 'Jews may no longer keep pets.' Read them in order if you can. The brass Stolpersteine in the pavement name the people behind the laws.
Then the Rudolph-Wilde-Park carries you west, gilded stag and all, to Rathaus Schöneberg — the balcony where Kennedy spoke in 1963, the Freedom Bell in the tower. End on John-F.-Kennedy-Platz, the U4 below. Stand a moment first.

