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The Bavarian Quarter: places of remembrance
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The Bavarian Quarter: places of remembrance

Eighty street-sign plaques quoting the anti-Jewish laws, the leafy squares, and the Rathaus balcony where Kennedy spoke.

Photo: A.Savin / Wikimedia Commons, Free Art License

Drafted by Claude — the editor hasn’t walked this one yet. We’ll update this notice once it’s been verified on the ground.

Distance

3 km

Time

~ 80 min

Difficulty

Easy

End

Rathaus Schöneberg (U4)

Best at

morning

Right now
17°C· Overcast

Open in Maps for turn-by-turn, or take it offline as GPX.

The Bayerisches Viertel looks like any prosperous, leafy Berlin quarter until you look up. On the lampposts, eighty plain signs quote the laws that stripped its Jewish residents — once so numerous the district was nicknamed 'the Jewish Switzerland' — of their lives one ordinance at a time. This is a walk about reading the street.

Start at Bayerischer Platz and walk the streets around it slowly. Stih & Schnock's Orte des Erinnerns — Places of Remembrance — is not a monument you visit but one you move through: a sign on a pole, then another, each a sentence of exclusion. 'Jews may no longer keep pets.' Read them in order if you can. The brass Stolpersteine in the pavement name the people behind the laws.

Then the Rudolph-Wilde-Park carries you west, gilded stag and all, to Rathaus Schöneberg — the balcony where Kennedy spoke in 1963, the Freedom Bell in the tower. End on John-F.-Kennedy-Platz, the U4 below. Stand a moment first.

The route

On the map.

Elevation

10 m·13 m·4051 m ASL

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

  1. 01
    1

    Bayerischer Platz

    Start at the square at the centre of the *Bayerisches Viertel* — once called 'the Jewish Switzerland' for the assimilated Jewish middle class who lived here. Look up at the lampposts: the memorial begins on this square.

  2. 02
    2

    Orte des Erinnerns (Places of Remembrance)

    Stih & Schnock's memorial: eighty double-sided signs on the lampposts, each quoting one of the laws that step by step excluded Jews from ordinary life — 'Jews may no longer keep pets,' and so on. Walk the surrounding streets and read them as you go. This is the walk.

  3. 03
    3

    Münchener Straße & the quarter's streets

    The residential blocks named for Bavarian and Alpine towns — Münchener, Salzburger, Aschaffenburger. Solid, leafy, prosperous; nearly all the original Jewish residents were deported. The *Stolpersteine* — brass stumbling stones — are set in the pavement at the doors they were taken from.

  4. 04
    4

    Rudolph-Wilde-Park

    The long landscaped park running west toward the Rathaus, with the *Goldener Hirsch* — the gilded stag — fountain. The leafy spine that carries you from the memorial streets to the town hall.

  5. 05
    5

    Rathaus Schöneberg

    The town hall that served as West Berlin's seat of government during the division. From its balcony, in June 1963, Kennedy said 'Ich bin ein Berliner' to the square below. The Freedom Bell hangs in the tower; it still rings at noon on Sundays.

  6. 06
    6

    John-F.-Kennedy-Platz & U4

    The square in front of the Rathaus, renamed for Kennedy after his death. The U4 runs from here — a single short line, fitting for a walk this contained. Stand a moment before you go down.