Wedding never gentrified the way Prenzlauer Berg did, and it's the better for the honesty. This is the working-class north — three kilometres around the Volkspark Humboldthain, up a flak tower the army couldn't knock down, and back along a street that used to be the border.
Start at Gesundbrunnen. If you've planned it right, the Berliner Unterwelten tour goes first — the wartime bunkers and flak-tower interiors under the park, bookable only ahead, never on a whim. Then into the park itself, laid out in the 1870s and half-buried after 1945 under the rubble of the bombed city.
The flak tower is the middle and the climb. Too solid to demolish, it was part-blown by the French and then mounded over; the stair to the top gives you raw concrete and a long view over Wedding. The Rosengarten below is the deliberate opposite — formal, calm, best in summer.
Drop south onto Brunnenstraße, a stretch of the old frontier now lined with Spätis and Turkish bakeries, and walk it down to the U8 at Voltastraße.
