Ferencváros and the Bálna
Ráday utca's café row, the glass-and-brick Whale on the river, and the Applied Arts museum. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Ráday utca
The pedestrianised café spine of the ninth district — tables out front, galleries and small bars down its length. Start at the Kálvin tér end and drift south; this is where Ferencváros does its eating and its evenings.

2. Bakáts tér and the Assumption Church
A leafy square off Ráday with the twin-towered parish church at its head and a fountain in front. A calmer beat between the café row and the river. Cross it, then aim for the embankment.

3. Iparművészeti Múzeum (Museum of Applied Arts)
Lechner's green-and-gold Art Nouveau masterpiece, its Zsolnay-tiled roof unmistakable from the street. Long closed for restoration — check before relying on it, and read the façade from the pavement in any case; the exterior alone earns the detour.

4. Bálna Budapest (the Whale)
The glass-and-brick whale beached on the embankment — old customs warehouses fused under a sweeping modern shell. Walk the river terrace at dusk when the glass catches the last light. Inside are cafés and the odd exhibition.

5. Nehru part (the Danube bank)
The riverside park strip below the Whale, looking across to Gellért Hill. Benches, joggers, the water going dark. Walk north along it for the open view, then turn inland towards Corvin.

6. Corvin-negyed
The regenerated quarter of new squares and student bars where the walk ends. A drink here is the natural full stop before the M3. Loud and young; the other end of Ferencváros from the river you just left.

Ferencváros and the Bálna