Erzsébetváros: the Jewish Quarter and the ruin bars
The largest synagogue in Europe, the old ghetto streets, and a courtyard bar inside a wreck. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Dohány Street Synagogue
Start at the great Moorish-style synagogue, the largest in Europe, its two onion-topped towers visible down the street before you reach them. Built in the 1850s. Round the back is the memorial garden and Imre Varga's silver weeping-willow tree, each leaf a name; go in even if you skip the museum.

2. Rumbach Sebestyén utca Synagogue
Two minutes north, the smaller synagogue on Rumbach street — a young Otto Wagner's design, striped brick, recently restored after decades as a ruin. Less visited than the Dohány one and the better building to stand inside, if it's open.

3. Kazinczy utca
The spine of the old ghetto, now the run of the quarter's bars and street food. Walk it slowly; the Orthodox synagogue is partway down, set back in its courtyard, and worth the look before the evening crowd thickens around the bar doors.

4. Szimpla Kert
The original *romkocsma* (ruin bar) — a derelict building left half-wrecked and filled with junk-shop furniture, a Trabant for a booth, plants down the walls. Come early evening before the queue forms. You don't have to drink; the point is walking through the *udvar* (courtyard) and the warren of rooms.

5. Gozsdu udvar
A chain of seven courtyards linked end to end, cutting a covered passage from Király utca to Dob utca, lined with bars and tables. Walk the full length; it's a street that happens to be indoors. Busiest at night, quieter and easier to read in the early evening.

6. Király utca
End on the street that marks the quarter's northern edge, the line where Erzsébetváros meets the grand boulevards. Walk west and you're at the Opera and the M1 in a few minutes; the shift from ghetto lanes to Andrássy's mansions happens in one block.

Erzsébetváros: the Jewish Quarter and the ruin bars