Margaret Island: the car-free river park
The musical fountain, the running track, a ruined convent, and a water tower in the trees. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. The musical fountain
Start at the southern tip, reached on foot from the Margaret Bridge tram stop. The fountain plays on the hour — water choreographed to anything from Vivaldi to film scores. Sit on the steps for one cycle; it's the island's overture, faintly ridiculous and entirely worth it.

2. The running track
A rubberised loop runs the length of the island under the trees — Budapest's open-air gym. You're walking, not running, but the track makes the easiest spine to follow north. Step onto the grass when the joggers thicken.

3. Dominican convent ruins
Low stone walls where a 13th-century convent stood — and where Princess Margaret, the island's namesake, lived out a life of pious misery her father the king had vowed for her. A plain grave slab marks the spot. Quiet, roofless, easy to walk straight past; don't.

4. The old water tower
The slender octagonal tower of 1911, all riveted ironwork and white render, now a lookout and gallery. Climb it if it's open for the view down the island's spine. The little open-air theatre at its foot stages summer opera.

5. Japanese garden
Near the northern end, a small landscaped garden of carp ponds, stepping stones and a wooden bridge, fed by a warm spring that keeps the water lively in winter. The island's most deliberate corner. Linger; the geese will judge you either way.

6. Árpád Bridge exit
Leave at the northern end onto Árpád híd, where tram 1 and the M3 metro run. Look back down the green length of the island you've just crossed — over two kilometres without a single car.

Margaret Island: the car-free river park