Óbuda: the old town square and Roman Aquincum
A baroque village square, bronze figures under umbrellas, and the streets of a Roman city. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Fő tér, Óbuda
The old town square that the city forgot to modernise — cobbles, baroque townhouses, the yellow Zichy mansion on one side. Arrive on the H5 at Szentlélek tér and walk straight in. The square is half-empty on a weekday afternoon, which is exactly the point.

2. Imre Varga's umbrella women
In a lane off the square stand four bronze women under umbrellas, waiting in the rain that never comes — Imre Varga's *Esernyős nők*. Walk in among them; they're life-sized and unnervingly companionable. The Varga museum is round the corner if the figures pull you in.

3. Kassák Museum
In the Zichy mansion's courtyard wing, a small museum to Lajos Kassák — poet, painter, and Hungary's one-man avant-garde. Constructivism in a baroque palace. You can skip it and still have walked past one of the odder pairings in the city.

4. Roman military amphitheatre
Further north, an oval of grass and stone ringed by tiers where a legion once watched the games — the larger of Aquincum's two amphitheatres, free and open to the air. Walk the arena floor; trams rattle past the rim and nobody else is here.

5. Aquincum archaeological park
The civilian town of *Aquincum*, capital of Roman Pannonia: streets, baths, shop foundations and a hydraulic organ in the museum. Get out at the Aquincum H5 stop. Give it an hour — the grid of low walls makes a whole vanished city legible underfoot.

6. The Danube embankment at Aquincum
End at the river the Romans built their frontier on. The far bank is flat and green; barges work upstream. A quiet, unmonumental finish — then the H5 back from the Aquincum stop a few minutes inland.

Óbuda: the old town square and Roman Aquincum