The Nagykörút: the grand boulevard of Pest
The great curving ring road, the trams 4 and 6, and the café that ate a city's literary life. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Nyugati pályaudvar
Start under the glass-and-iron train shed built by the Eiffel company in the 1870s — yes, that Eiffel. Stand on the forecourt and read the ironwork before the trams pull you south. The yellow 4 and 6 run the whole boulevard from here.

2. Vígszínház
A block north of the station, the comedy theatre of 1896, all cream stucco and corner turrets. You don't have to catch a play; the building is the point. Then double back to the körút and start walking south.

3. Oktogon
The eight-sided crossing where the *Nagykörút* meets Andrássy út, framed by four matching apartment blocks. The trams stop here and so should you, just to feel the symmetry. The boulevard's grandest stretch runs south from this point.

4. New York Café
The most over-gilded room in the city, where the writers of a century ago drafted their journals over a single coffee. The prices now are absurd; walk in to gawp at the ceiling, then leave if you like. Nobody minds.

5. Wesselényi utca corner
Around here the eclectic apartment grandeur is at its densest — caryatids, oriel windows, the whole nineteenth-century show. Look up, not ahead. The shopfronts at street level keep changing; the upper storeys never do.

6. Boráros tér
The southern end, where the boulevard meets the river at Petőfi Bridge. The view opens onto the Danube and you're done. Trams 4 and 6 turn here; take one back if your legs have had enough of the grand curve.

The Nagykörút: the grand boulevard of Pest