The Tabán: the ghost quarter and the baths

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

1. 01

   1

   Rudas Baths (Rudas fürdő)

   Start at the most atmospheric bath in the city, on the riverbank below Gellért Hill. The octagonal Turkish pool under its domed roof dates from the 1560s, Ottoman work still in daily use. The rooftop tub looks straight up at the hill. You don't have to bathe — but you'll want to.

   01

   Rudas Baths (Rudas fürdő)

   Start at the most atmospheric bath in the city, on the riverbank below Gellért Hill. The octagonal Turkish pool under its domed roof dates from the 1560s, Ottoman work still in daily use. The rooftop tub looks straight up at the hill. You don't have to bathe — but you'll want to.

   ◉Street View
2. 02

   2

   Erzsébet híd approach (the Elisabeth Bridge)

   The sweep of the white *Erzsébet híd* (Elisabeth Bridge) lands right here on the Buda side. Walk under and around its approach ramps — the engineering is brutal and elegant at once, the only all-white bridge across the river. Then turn uphill into the green.

   02

   Erzsébet híd approach (the Elisabeth Bridge)

   The sweep of the white *Erzsébet híd* (Elisabeth Bridge) lands right here on the Buda side. Walk under and around its approach ramps — the engineering is brutal and elegant at once, the only all-white bridge across the river. Then turn uphill into the green.

   ◉Street View
3. 03

   3

   The Tabán slope (the vanished quarter)

   The grassy hillside between Castle Hill and Gellért Hill is the strangest space in central Buda: a whole quarter of crooked Serbian and Dalmatian streets stood here until the 1930s, when the city flattened the lot. Now it's just lawns and a few survivors. Read the emptiness; that's the point.

   03

   The Tabán slope (the vanished quarter)

   The grassy hillside between Castle Hill and Gellért Hill is the strangest space in central Buda: a whole quarter of crooked Serbian and Dalmatian streets stood here until the 1930s, when the city flattened the lot. Now it's just lawns and a few survivors. Read the emptiness; that's the point.

   ◉Street View
4. 04

   4

   Tabáni plébániatemplom (the parish church)

   One of the few buildings that survived the clearance — the yellow baroque parish church on its rise, marooned among the lawns where its parish used to be. A quiet survivor. Circle it and carry on up the slope.

   04

   Tabáni plébániatemplom (the parish church)

   One of the few buildings that survived the clearance — the yellow baroque parish church on its rise, marooned among the lawns where its parish used to be. A quiet survivor. Circle it and carry on up the slope.

   ◉Street View
5. 05

   5

   Rác Baths (Rácfürdő)

   On the southern edge of the slope, another Ottoman-founded bath, its old Turkish pool wrapped in a later spa hotel. The building has had a long, troubled restoration; check whether it's open before counting on a soak. Worth seeing for the layered history either way.

   05

   Rác Baths (Rácfürdő)

   On the southern edge of the slope, another Ottoman-founded bath, its old Turkish pool wrapped in a later spa hotel. The building has had a long, troubled restoration; check whether it's open before counting on a soak. Worth seeing for the layered history either way.

   ◉Street View
6. 06

   6

   Szarvas tér (the Stag House)

   End at the small triangular square at the southern foot of Castle Hill, named for the *Szarvas-ház* — the Stag House — with its 18th-century sign of a golden deer over the door. A calm, low corner of old Buda. Tram 19 or 41 from here.

   06

   Szarvas tér (the Stag House)

   End at the small triangular square at the southern foot of Castle Hill, named for the *Szarvas-ház* — the Stag House — with its 18th-century sign of a golden deer over the door. A calm, low corner of old Buda. Tram 19 or 41 from here.

   ◉Street View