The old ramparts: Tivoli to Kastellet
The green ring of Copenhagen's old fortifications — five parks in a row from the gardens to the star fort. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Tivoli main gate (Rådhuspladsen)
*Tivoli* opened on the cleared southern ramparts in 1843 — Georg Carstensen's gardens-and-pleasure-park experiment that's still working a hundred and eighty years on. Pay to go inside (the wooden *Rutschebanen* roller coaster is worth it); otherwise the perimeter wall is the walk's opening kilometre.

2. Botanisk Have
Across *H.C. Andersens Boulevard* on the old rampart land. The *Palmehus* (1874) is the iron-and-glass centrepiece, free entry; the rest is a University of Copenhagen botanical collection laid out on the moat-and-bank topography of the old fortification.

3. Ørstedsparken
A small landscaped park between Botanisk Have and *Israels Plads*. Named for *H.C. Ørsted*, who discovered electromagnetism in Copenhagen in 1820 (the bust is here, the actual lab was nearby). The pond in the middle is the old defensive moat re-shaped.

4. Statens Museum for Kunst
*SMK*, the national gallery, faces *Østre Anlæg* on the rampart land. The original Wilhelm Petersen + Vilhelm Dahlerup neo-Renaissance building (1896) joined to C.F. Møller's 1998 glass extension. Free entry to the collection; the lakeside facade is the architectural side.

5. Østre Anlæg
The park between SMK and the *Hirschsprung* Collection. Curved lawns over the old eastern rampart, ponds in the moat dips, trees that have had a century and a half to settle. The most lived-in stretch of the ring.

6. Kastellet (the star fort)
The 17th-c star-shaped fortress is the only stretch of the old ramparts still standing — still in military use, but the earthen ramparts and the inner courtyard are open during the day. Walk the rampart in a slow loop; the geometric perfection of a five-pointed star fortification reads better from the wall-top than from any map.

7. Den Lille Havfrue and Østerport S-tog
*Den Lille Havfrue* — Edvard Eriksen's 1913 bronze, the most overphotographed object in Denmark — sits on her stone at *Langelinie*, closing the green ring at the harbour. Walk fifteen minutes south-west through Kastellet's gates to *Østerport* S-tog for the train back.

The old ramparts: Tivoli to Kastellet