Two of Dublin's great institutions share a wall in Glasnevin: the National Botanic Gardens on one side, the cemetery on the other, the living and the dead with a gate between them. It's the best value walk in the city — the gardens are free, the air in the glasshouses is its own weather — and it works in rain as well as sun, which is rare here.
Start through the Botanic Road gate into fifty acres founded in 1795, and make straight for Richard Turner's Curvilinear Range, the wrought-iron glasshouses by the engineer who built Kew's Palm House. Walk their full length, then down to where the River Tolka forms the boundary and a gate in the wall drops you into Glasnevin Cemetery. The round tower over Daniel O'Connell's crypt rises first; beyond it lie Collins, Parnell, de Valera, Maud Gonne — modern Ireland in granite. Collins still gets fresh flowers every day.
End out the front gate at the Gravediggers, John Kavanagh's pub against the cemetery wall, pouring since 1833. A pint in the front bar is the only proper finish. Buses to town stop nearby.