Parnell Square is the cultural engine of the north city — a Georgian square that quietly holds a great gallery, a national shrine, the oldest maternity hospital in the world, and now a vast new library. Most visitors never climb this far up O'Connell Street. Their loss.
Start at the Hugh Lane in Charlemont House. The Lane Bequest Impressionists are the headline, but the unmissable thing is Francis Bacon's studio — shipped from London piece by piece and rebuilt behind glass, every tin and torn photograph mapped where he left it. Next door the new city library is taking shape, the north side's deliberate cultural statement.
Cross to the Garden of Remembrance, sunken and cruciform, the Children of Lir rising from the pool. People hush here on instinct. The north side of the square gathered Dublin's writers; the doors read like a literary address book. Round the curve of the Rotunda, founded in 1745 and still delivering babies, and finish at the Gate, where Welles and Mason began. The Luas to the GPO is at your feet.