Parnell Square: the cultural quarter and the Garden of Remembrance
The Hugh Lane and its Bacon studio, the Garden of Remembrance, and the Rotunda's curve. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Hugh Lane Gallery
Charlemont House, on the north side of the square, holds Dublin's modern collection. Two reasons to go: the Lane Bequest's Impressionists, fought over with London for a century, and Francis Bacon's studio — lifted whole from London and rebuilt behind glass, every paint tin and slashed canvas in place.

2. Dublin City Library, Parnell Square
The new central library is rising on the square's edge, folding the old Coláiste Mhuire houses into one civic block. Worth a look for the scale of the bet — the north city's cultural anchor, deliberately placed here rather than south of the river.

3. Garden of Remembrance
The sunken cruciform garden honours those who died for Irish freedom. The Children of Lir sculpture rises from the pool at the far end. Walk down the steps and round the water; it's a quiet square within a square, and people lower their voices without being asked.

4. Dublin Writers connections, north side
The Georgian terraces here gathered the literary north city — the former Writers Museum sat on this side, and the streets fed Joyce, Behan and the Abbey crowd. Read the doors; this was the address book of Irish letters.

5. The Rotunda
The world's oldest continuously working maternity hospital, founded 1745, curves along the square's south side. You can't wander in, but the Rotunda chapel and the elegant frontage are the reason the square exists at all — the pleasure-gardens funded the hospital.

6. The Gate Theatre
Tucked into the Rotunda's old assembly rooms at the square's foot. Orson Welles and James Mason both started here. If there's an evening show, the walk has a natural sequel; if not, the portico still earns a look. The Luas down to the GPO is a step away.

Parnell Square: the cultural quarter and the Garden of Remembrance