The Liffey is the line Dublin is built along, and the run of quays from the Custom House to the Four Courts is the city reading itself out loud — two Gandon palaces at either end, a chain of bridges between, and the whole thing best at dusk when the lamps come on.
Start downstream at the Custom House, the long Portland-stone front and green dome, its doorways crowned with carved heads for Ireland's rivers. Pick up the boardwalk, the timber walkway slung out over the water, and follow it west below the traffic. The Ha'penny Bridge — white iron, 1816, named for its old toll — reads best from here, side-on; cross it for the bounce, then come back.
Carry on past Grattan Bridge with its seahorse lamps, where Capel Street runs north and the Four Courts dome lines up to the west. The quays at Wood Quay sit on the buried Viking city. Finish at the Four Courts, Gandon's second river palace, shelled in 1922 and standing again. The Luas is right behind it.