The Quays: the Liffey bridges, the boardwalk and the Custom House
The river boardwalk, the Ha'penny Bridge, the Custom House, and the line of spans to the Four Courts. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. The Custom House
Start downstream at Gandon's masterpiece, the long Portland-stone front with the green dome. Walk the river side and find the carved riverine heads above the doors — each one a face for an Irish river. Burned in 1921, rebuilt; the scorch line in the stone is still faintly there if you look.

2. The Liffey Boardwalk
Pick up the timber walkway cantilevered out over the water on the north bank. It runs you west along the river below the traffic. Lean on the rail and watch the tide turn the Liffey from green to brown; the city walks past behind you.

3. The Ha'penny Bridge
The white cast-iron arch, 1816, named for the toll it used to charge. The only place to take it in properly is from the boardwalk, side-on. Cross it once for the springy feel underfoot, then come back to the north bank and carry on.

4. Grattan Bridge / Capel Street
The flat bridge with the seahorse lamp standards, looking straight up Capel Street. Stand mid-span and look west — the dome of the Four Courts now closes the river view ahead, your destination lined up by the bridge-builders on purpose.

5. O'Donovan Rossa Bridge
The next span along, granite and three-arched. The quays here, Wood Quay and Inns Quay, sit on the oldest inhabited ground in the city — the Viking town was right beneath your feet. Keep the river on your left.

6. The Four Courts
Gandon's other river palace closes the walk, the great drum and dome rising over Inns Quay. Shelled in the 1922 Civil War and rebuilt, it's the working heart of Irish law again. The Luas at Four Courts is right behind it; cross the river first for the full elevation.

The Quays: the Liffey bridges, the boardwalk and the Custom House