Dean Village is the strangest trick the New Town plays: a five-minute walk from the grid and you're in a stone milling hamlet at the bottom of a gorge, with the city sealed off above you. For seven hundred years the Water of Leith ran the mills that ground Edinburgh's grain here. When the mills died the village simply stayed, marooned and quiet.
Come down Bell's Brae from the West End and the noise drops away. Well Court sits at the bottom — a red-sandstone courtyard of model workers' housing from 1884, and the photograph everyone takes. Then pick up the Water of Leith Walkway downstream, a green corridor of weirs and leaning trees where the only traffic is the odd dipper on a rock.
The walk's small wonder is St Bernard's Well, a circular Roman-temple folly built over a mineral spring in 1789, with Hygieia standing inside. Just before it, look up: Telford's Dean Bridge vaults a hundred feet over the gorge you're in. The path lifts you out at Stockbridge — coffee, or the bus home.