Edinburgh's New Town gets the guidebooks; the Victorian tenement city south of the Meadows gets the people who actually live well. Marchmont is the high water mark of it — street after street of bay-windowed sandstone, built in the 1870s and 80s when the railways let the comfortable classes spread out, and it has aged into the most desirable address in the city that isn't a Georgian one. This is the walk through that, best in the morning when the stone is warm and the park is empty.
Start down Middle Meadow Walk under the limes and cross the Meadows, the flat green the Victorians made from a drained loch — find the whalebone arch if you can. Then up into Marchmont Road and Warrender Park Road, where the tenements stack their bays four storeys high and every fanlit door is painted a different colour.
Drop east into Sciennes, lower and older and quieter, where the grid loosens into something villagey. Finish at the plaque marking where young Walter Scott once met Burns, and catch a bus from Sciennes Road.