Newhaven was a fishing village before Edinburgh swallowed it, and it still feels like one: a stone harbour, a lighthouse, rows of fisher cottages, and the great cold sweep of the Forth in front. The new tram runs right to it now, which is the small miracle of this walk — you ride out from the city centre and step off into a sixteenth-century port.
From the terminus, walk down to the harbour, built in the days when James IV had his warship the Michael laid down on this shore. Go out along the pier to the lighthouse at the mouth, where the firth opens and Fife sits low and grey across the water. Behind you is the old fishmarket: Newhaven had its own dialect and its own famous fishwives, who carried creels of herring up into the town.
Climb a lane through the Main Street cottages, with their forestairs and bright doors, then take the shore path west for the full view — the rail bridges off to the west, the gulls, the wind. Double back to the tram when you've had your fill of the Forth. The whole thing is short, and that's the point.
