Balat & Fener: stairs, colour, the Golden Horn
The most photographed neighbourhood in Istanbul, but only on Sunday and only if you walk the back lanes. Walked and written by the editor.

1. Fener İskelesi
Start on the water. Golden Horn ferries run from Eminönü and Üsküdar. The ferry is part of the walk — it's the cleanest approach to a neighbourhood that's gentle on foot but chaotic by road.

2. Fener Rum Patrikhanesi
The Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople — the spiritual centre of Orthodox Christianity worldwide. The courtyard is open; the chapel is a jewel-box of icons. Dress modestly, photos fine outside, ask inside.

3. Fener Rum Lisesi
The red castle on the hill. Built in 1881, still a working Greek school for Istanbul's last few hundred Rum families. Don't go in — it's a school — but step back for the view.

4. Merdivenli Yokuş
The rainbow stairs that every photo of Balat is taken at. Yes, it's posed. No, that doesn't make it bad. Climb up, take the picture, move on — the real neighbourhood is over the hill.

5. Vodina Caddesi
The lane of painted wooden houses — the ones on every postcard. Walk slowly. On Sundays the cafés put chairs on the street and the antique market spreads across the corner.

6. Balat İskelesi
End back at the water. The ferry back to Eminönü is forty-five unhurried minutes along the Horn. If the sun is setting, stand on the starboard side.

Balat & Fener: stairs, colour, the Golden Horn