Beşiktaş to Ortaköy, along the Bosphorus
Two ferries, a palace, and a seafront walk that ends with a view of the bridge framing a mosque dome. Walked and written by the editor.

1. Dolmabahçe Sarayı
The 19th-century palace on the water — the Ottomans moved here from Topkapı to keep up with European crowned heads. Crystal chandeliers, a throne room, Atatürk's small room where he died. Go in or don't; the outer walls along the water are the walk's first kilometre either way.

2. Beşiktaş İskelesi
The ferry pier and the giant bronze eagle — the club's crest, the neighbourhood's identity. Pick up a simit or a midye dolma from the carts before pushing north.

3. Çırağan Sarayı sahili
Another palace-turned-hotel. You can't go in without a room, but the waterside wall is right there — walk the length and peer at the gardens.

4. Ortaköy Meydanı
The small square with the baroque mosque right on the water. Sundays are a market and a street-food festival; weekdays it's quiet enough to just sit. Kumpir (baked potato) is a local vice.

5. Ortaköy Camii & the bridge
The trick shot — Ortaköy Mosque in the foreground, the first Bosphorus Bridge looming behind. Best at dusk when the bridge lights come on. Stand on the jetty; give it a minute.

Beşiktaş to Ortaköy, along the Bosphorus