Fatih is the working religious quarter — Mehmed II's mosque, the Wednesday market, the neighbourhood that lives more than it tourists. The Conqueror is buried in the courtyard of the mosque he built on the ruins of the Church of the Holy Apostles in 1471. This is the inland Istanbul most foreigners skip on the way from Sultanahmet to Süleymaniye, which is one reason to go. Modest dress throughout — not just at the mosque. Fatih is the most religiously conservative neighbourhood in central Istanbul.
Three kilometres, ninety minutes with the mosque and the market. Vezneciler metro is the entry; walk west along Macar Kardeşler Caddesi past Şehzade and on to Fatih Camii. The original mosque was levelled by the 1766 earthquake; what stands now is the Mustafa III rebuild, completed in 1771 in a more austere late-Ottoman style.
The point is the courtyard. Mehmed II's türbe is there — the Conqueror buried in his own mosque, more directly than Süleymaniye's arrangement. On Fridays around noon, give the prayer hour wide berth. Wednesdays are for the Çarşamba Pazarı a few streets north — the most religiously conservative market in central Istanbul. End at Yusufpaşa for the T1 tram back to anywhere.

