Karaköy: from the fishermen to Istanbul Modern
Fishermen, contemporary art, and baklava — three eras of Istanbul in one kilometre by the water. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Galata Bridge — the fishermen
Cross the bridge on foot from Eminönü. The anglers lining both decks are the walk's first stop, working the same water their fathers did. The lower deck is meyhanes and shisha cafés if you want a beer at the start; the top deck is the working fishermen.

2. Galataport
The redeveloped cruise terminal, opened 2021 — most of it boutiques and chain cafés you can walk past, but the seaside promenade itself is the achievement. Walk east; Istanbul Modern is at the far end.

3. Istanbul Modern
The Renzo Piano building, opened 2023 in its new permanent home back in Karaköy. The rooftop terrace is the move — it frames Hagia Sophia across the Horn from a height nothing else here gets. Pay for the upper galleries if the current show interests you; the terrace alone is worth the stop.

4. Karaköy Lokantası
The blue-tiled Ottoman lokanta — pre-redevelopment, pre-everything. Lunch queues are honest; either book or arrive at 11:30. The tiles outside are worth a photo even if you don't eat.

5. Karaköy Güllüoğlu
Baklava since 1820 — older than unified Italy and most cafés in Europe. The pistachio is the move; sit in if you want it warm, take away if you want to walk it off.

6. Tünel funicular
The 1875 funicular — the second-oldest underground passenger railway in the world after London's. One stop up to Beyoğlu and you've climbed the hill without climbing it. The F2 platform is at the south end of the old port.

Karaköy: from the fishermen to Istanbul Modern