Kurtuluş: the quarter that was Tatavla
Greek and Armenian until the 20th century emptied it; the architectural ghost on Belle Époque facades. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Osmanbey metro (M2)
The M2 stop at the southern edge of Şişli, on the spine that runs north into old Tatavla. Walk straight up Kurtuluş Caddesi from the metro exit; the quarter starts within minutes.

2. Kurtuluş Caddesi
The spine of old Tatavla. Look up: the 19th-century apartment buildings still carry their Belle Époque facades — ornate cornices, occasional Greek script over doorways for a community that isn't there to read it. Working-class today; the buildings outlived their builders.

3. Aya Eleftherios
A surviving Greek Orthodox parish, services on Sundays and Greek feast days. The courtyard opens when the gate is unlocked; ask before stepping into the church proper. Quiet enough most weekdays that you'll have the place to yourself.

4. The side streets — Greek-script lintels
Walk the streets off Kurtuluş Caddesi (Bilezikçi Sokak, Ergenekon Caddesi and their tributaries). Several apartment blocks still carry Greek-script inscriptions over their doorways. The buildings are working housing; the inscriptions are the ghost.

5. An old Tatavla bakery
One or two of the old Rum/Armenian bakeries persist — white bread, böreks, the morning shift smell on the street. Names change hands; the editor should anchor a current one. The pre-dawn smell is part of the walk if you go early.

6. Back to Osmanbey metro
Loop back south on Kurtuluş Caddesi for the M2. Or push east a few blocks for Bomonti station on the same line if you want the Bomonti brewery district as an extension.

Kurtuluş: the quarter that was Tatavla