Süleymaniye: Sinan's mosque and the old book bazaar

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

1. 01

   1

   Vezneciler metro (M2)

   Third hill. Walk up Süleymaniye Caddesi five minutes — the mosque appears over the rooftops about halfway. Best to arrive between morning prayers (roughly 7am and the late-morning one); the courtyard is then quiet enough to walk slowly through.

   ◉Street View

   01

   Vezneciler metro (M2)

   Third hill. Walk up Süleymaniye Caddesi five minutes — the mosque appears over the rooftops about halfway. Best to arrive between morning prayers (roughly 7am and the late-morning one); the courtyard is then quiet enough to walk slowly through.

2. 02

   2

   Sinan'ın Türbesi

   The octagonal tomb of Mimar Sinan — the architect who built this mosque and a few hundred others, buried in the small structure he designed for himself. He died at ninety-eight in 1588. Most visitors don't realise it's there; walk in slowly.

   ◉Street View

   02

   Sinan'ın Türbesi

   The octagonal tomb of Mimar Sinan — the architect who built this mosque and a few hundred others, buried in the small structure he designed for himself. He died at ninety-eight in 1588. Most visitors don't realise it's there; walk in slowly.

3. 03

   3

   Süleymaniye Camii

   Remove shoes; women given headscarves at the door if needed. The dome is the obvious move, but spend a minute on the floor pattern and the calligraphic medallions on the four piers — the geometry was state-of-the-art for 1557 and still teaches modern engineers.

   ◉Street View

   03

   Süleymaniye Camii

   Remove shoes; women given headscarves at the door if needed. The dome is the obvious move, but spend a minute on the floor pattern and the calligraphic medallions on the four piers — the geometry was state-of-the-art for 1557 and still teaches modern engineers.

4. 04

   4

   Tombs of Süleyman and Hürrem

   Behind the mosque, in the cemetery garden. Süleyman's türbe is grander; Hürrem Sultan's is the more beautiful, faced with İznik tiles in cobalt and turquoise. She was a Ruthenian captive who became Süleyman's only wife and one of the most powerful women of the Ottoman century.

   ◉Street View

   04

   Tombs of Süleyman and Hürrem

   Behind the mosque, in the cemetery garden. Süleyman's türbe is grander; Hürrem Sultan's is the more beautiful, faced with İznik tiles in cobalt and turquoise. She was a Ruthenian captive who became Süleyman's only wife and one of the most powerful women of the Ottoman century.

5. 05

   5

   Sahaflar Çarşısı

   The old book bazaar — late Ottoman, originally on the same spot as a Byzantine paper market. Antique books, calligraphy, Ottoman-era prints, hand-bound miniature Korans. The dealers don't push; let your eye do the work.

   ◉Street View

   05

   Sahaflar Çarşısı

   The old book bazaar — late Ottoman, originally on the same spot as a Byzantine paper market. Antique books, calligraphy, Ottoman-era prints, hand-bound miniature Korans. The dealers don't push; let your eye do the work.

6. 06

   6

   Beyazıt tram (T1)

   The T1 stop right by the Istanbul University gate. The tram takes you east to Sultanahmet, or west toward Aksaray and the airport metro line. Or walk five minutes south into the Grand Bazaar; the morning is still young.

   ◉Street View

   06

   Beyazıt tram (T1)

   The T1 stop right by the Istanbul University gate. The tram takes you east to Sultanahmet, or west toward Aksaray and the airport metro line. Or walk five minutes south into the Grand Bazaar; the morning is still young.