Sultanahmet: the big three, without the crowds
Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Cistern — in the right order, at the right time. Dawn start, coffee break built in. Walked and written by the editor.

1. Gülhane Parkı
The old outer garden of Topkapı. Arrive right at opening — a quiet loop with roses, a tea stand by the Roman columns, and a view down to the Bosphorus most tour groups miss.

2. Topkapı Sarayı gate
You don't have to go in. The first courtyard is free and enormous, and the Imperial Gate is one of Istanbul's great pieces of calligraphy. If you go in, do Harem + Treasury or it's not worth it.

3. Ayasofya / Hagia Sophia
1,500 years old. Active mosque since 2020 — free entry, but closed five times a day for prayer. Check the board at the door. Upper galleries are the quiet place.

4. Sultanahmet Meydanı
The Hippodrome — chariot races, 203 AD. The Egyptian obelisk, the Serpent Column, the walled one: stand in a line on what used to be the track. A tea from the kiosk belongs here.

5. Sultan Ahmet Camii (Blue Mosque)
The six-minaret one. Free, still a working mosque, women given headscarves at the door. Look up for the İznik tiles. Remove shoes — the carpet is part of the experience.

6. Yerebatan Sarnıcı (Basilica Cistern)
The underground forest of columns and the two Medusa heads. Recently restored with new lighting and walkways. Claustrophobes: skip. Everyone else: essential.

Sultanahmet: the big three, without the crowds