Demachiyanagi & Shimogamo: the forest and the delta

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

1. 01

   1

   The Kamo delta (Demachiyanagi)

   Begin where the Takano and Kamo rivers meet in a shallow Y, with stepping-stones — some carved as turtles and birds — set across the fork. Children and herons share them. Hop across if the water's low; it's the city's favourite place to do nothing.

   01

   The Kamo delta (Demachiyanagi)

   Begin where the Takano and Kamo rivers meet in a shallow Y, with stepping-stones — some carved as turtles and birds — set across the fork. Children and herons share them. Hop across if the water's low; it's the city's favourite place to do nothing.

   ◉Street View
2. 02

   2

   Tadasu-no-mori

   The *-mori* (forest) leading up to the shrine — a strip of primaeval broadleaf woodland that has never been cleared, some trees six hundred years old, on ground people have walked to worship for far longer. The path runs cool and dim even at midday. This is the quiet heart of the walk.

   02

   Tadasu-no-mori

   The *-mori* (forest) leading up to the shrine — a strip of primaeval broadleaf woodland that has never been cleared, some trees six hundred years old, on ground people have walked to worship for far longer. The path runs cool and dim even at midday. This is the quiet heart of the walk.

   ◉Street View
3. 03

   3

   Shimogamo-jinja

   At the top of the forest, *Shimogamo-jinja* — a *jinja* (shrine) among Kyoto's oldest, predating the city itself, and a UNESCO site. Look for the row of small shrines matched to the zodiac years; people queue at their own. The vermilion against the green is the photograph everyone takes and should.

   03

   Shimogamo-jinja

   At the top of the forest, *Shimogamo-jinja* — a *jinja* (shrine) among Kyoto's oldest, predating the city itself, and a UNESCO site. Look for the row of small shrines matched to the zodiac years; people queue at their own. The vermilion against the green is the photograph everyone takes and should.

   ◉Street View
4. 04

   4

   Mitarashi pond

   Beside the shrine, the spring-fed pond whose rising bubbles are said to have inspired *mitarashi dango* — grilled rice dumplings in a dark sweet-soy glaze. A stall by the gate sells them; eat them warm on the bench by the water. The origin story may be tidy invention; the dumplings are real.

   04

   Mitarashi pond

   Beside the shrine, the spring-fed pond whose rising bubbles are said to have inspired *mitarashi dango* — grilled rice dumplings in a dark sweet-soy glaze. A stall by the gate sells them; eat them warm on the bench by the water. The origin story may be tidy invention; the dumplings are real.

   ◉Street View
5. 05

   5

   Demachi Masugata shopping street

   Back south, the old covered *shotengai* (shopping street) — a working local arcade of tofu makers, greengrocers, and a tea shop, not a tourist parade. This is where the neighbourhood actually shops. Wander it before the last stop, which is the reason you came.

   05

   Demachi Masugata shopping street

   Back south, the old covered *shotengai* (shopping street) — a working local arcade of tofu makers, greengrocers, and a tea shop, not a tourist parade. This is where the neighbourhood actually shops. Wander it before the last stop, which is the reason you came.

   ◉Street View
6. 06

   6

   Demachi Futaba

   The corner sweet shop famous for *mamemochi* — soft rice cake studded with red beans, eaten the same day. The queue moves fast and tells you you're in the right place. Buy one, walk to the river to eat it, then the Keihan line home from *Demachiyanagi*.

   06

   Demachi Futaba

   The corner sweet shop famous for *mamemochi* — soft rice cake studded with red beans, eaten the same day. The queue moves fast and tells you you're in the right place. Buy one, walk to the river to eat it, then the Keihan line home from *Demachiyanagi*.

   ◉Street View