This is the north Kyoto that isn't on the temple circuit — a hill, a bathhouse, and two sweet shops that have been grilling the same thing across the same lane for the better part of a thousand years.
Start up Funaoka-yama, a low wooded hill in the residential north; five minutes through the trees and the whole basin opens east, the hills closing it west. Kenkun-jinja on the flank honours Oda Nobunaga, who once held Kyoto from near this ground. Down the far side is Funaoka Onsen, a sento (neighbourhood bathhouse) from the 1920s with carved transoms and old tile — a working bath, so use it or just admire the frontage.
Then west to Imamiya-jinja, and the real reason: at its east gate, two rival shops face off across a narrow lane, both grilling aburi-mochi (charcoal-grilled rice-cake skewers in sweet miso) over coals as they have for centuries — one claims to be the oldest sweet shop in Japan. Order a plate, sit, pick a side. Then the Murasakino lanes carry you gently down to Kitaoji station.