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Funaoka and Murasakino
quirkyheritage

Funaoka and Murasakino

A hill with a city view, a 1920s bathhouse, and the oldest sweet shops in Kyoto.

Photo: Torsodog / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0

Drafted by Claude — the editor hasn’t walked this one yet. We’ll update this notice once it’s been verified on the ground.

Distance

3 km

Time

~ 80 min

Difficulty

Easy

End

Kitaoji (Karasuma subway)

Best at

afternoon

Right now
25°C· Partly cloudy

Open in Maps for turn-by-turn, or take it offline as GPX.

This is the north Kyoto that isn't on the temple circuit — a hill, a bathhouse, and two sweet shops that have been grilling the same thing across the same lane for the better part of a thousand years.

Start up Funaoka-yama, a low wooded hill in the residential north; five minutes through the trees and the whole basin opens east, the hills closing it west. Kenkun-jinja on the flank honours Oda Nobunaga, who once held Kyoto from near this ground. Down the far side is Funaoka Onsen, a sento (neighbourhood bathhouse) from the 1920s with carved transoms and old tile — a working bath, so use it or just admire the frontage.

Then west to Imamiya-jinja, and the real reason: at its east gate, two rival shops face off across a narrow lane, both grilling aburi-mochi (charcoal-grilled rice-cake skewers in sweet miso) over coals as they have for centuries — one claims to be the oldest sweet shop in Japan. Order a plate, sit, pick a side. Then the Murasakino lanes carry you gently down to Kitaoji station.

The route

On the map.

Elevation

29 m·44 m·77107 m ASL

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

  1. 01
    1

    Funaoka Hill (Funaoka-yama)

    A low wooded hill in the middle of the residential north — five minutes up through trees to a rocky top. The view runs west across the tiled roofs to the hills, and east over the whole basin. Locals come to sit, not to be seen sitting.

  2. 02
    2

    Kenkun-jinja

    The *jinja* (Shinto shrine) on the hill's flank, dedicated to the warlord Oda Nobunaga, who once held the city from near here. A steep flight of steps and almost no one on them. Worth the climb for the quiet alone.

  3. 03
    3

    Funaoka Onsen

    A *sento* (neighbourhood bathhouse) from the 1920s with carved wooden transoms and old tilework — a working bath, not a museum, so go in and use it if you like, or just look at the frontage. Towels and soap are sold at the desk.

  4. 04
    4

    Imamiya-jinja

    A handsome *jinja* north-west of Daitoku-ji with a vermilion gate and broad grounds. Known as the 'good-fortune' shrine; the reason most people come is waiting just outside the east gate.

  5. 05
    5

    The aburi-mochi shops

    Two rival shops face each other across the lane at Imamiya's east gate, both grilling *aburi-mochi* (skewered, charcoal-grilled rice cakes in sweet miso) over coals as they have for centuries. Sit on a bench, order a plate and tea, and pick a side. One claims to be the oldest sweet shop in Japan.

  6. 06
    6

    Murasakino lanes to Kitaoji

    South-east through the *Murasakino* backstreets — quiet, low houses, the odd old shopfront — toward Kitaoji station. No single sight, just the walk down off the hill into the city's grid.