Funaoka and Murasakino
A hill with a city view, a 1920s bathhouse, and the oldest sweet shops in Kyoto. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Funaoka Hill (Funaoka-yama)
A low wooded hill in the middle of the residential north — five minutes up through trees to a rocky top. The view runs west across the tiled roofs to the hills, and east over the whole basin. Locals come to sit, not to be seen sitting.

2. Kenkun-jinja
The *jinja* (Shinto shrine) on the hill's flank, dedicated to the warlord Oda Nobunaga, who once held the city from near here. A steep flight of steps and almost no one on them. Worth the climb for the quiet alone.

3. Funaoka Onsen
A *sento* (neighbourhood bathhouse) from the 1920s with carved wooden transoms and old tilework — a working bath, not a museum, so go in and use it if you like, or just look at the frontage. Towels and soap are sold at the desk.

4. Imamiya-jinja
A handsome *jinja* north-west of Daitoku-ji with a vermilion gate and broad grounds. Known as the 'good-fortune' shrine; the reason most people come is waiting just outside the east gate.

5. The aburi-mochi shops
Two rival shops face each other across the lane at Imamiya's east gate, both grilling *aburi-mochi* (skewered, charcoal-grilled rice cakes in sweet miso) over coals as they have for centuries. Sit on a bench, order a plate and tea, and pick a side. One claims to be the oldest sweet shop in Japan.

6. Murasakino lanes to Kitaoji
South-east through the *Murasakino* backstreets — quiet, low houses, the odd old shopfront — toward Kitaoji station. No single sight, just the walk down off the hill into the city's grid.

Funaoka and Murasakino