Kamigamo: the northern shrine
One of Kyoto's oldest shrines, a stream-side village of priests' houses, and almost no one else. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Kamigamo-jinja first torii
The shrine opens with a broad gravel lawn behind the first *torii* (shrine gate) — not the usual cramped approach but a green field you cross at your own pace. A UNESCO site, and one of the two oldest *jinja* in the city, yet usually near-empty.

2. The sand cones (tatesuna)
Two perfect cones of white sand stand before the second gate, raked to a point — said to be the origin of the salt piles outside Japanese restaurants. Stand close; the precision is the thing. The main hall behind is plain, ancient cypress.

3. Ota-jinja
A short walk east, a small *jinja* with an iris pond that draws people for two weeks in May and is otherwise yours alone. The approach under trees is the reason to come even out of season.

4. Mitarai stream and the shake-machi
Back at the shrine's edge, the Mitarai stream runs out along Omiya-dori past the *shake-machi* — the preserved street of Shinto priests' houses, low walls and gates, water running beside the road. Walk it slowly; this is the village.

5. Nishimura House (Nishimura-tei)
One priest's house on the stream is open to visitors — a rare look inside a *shake* (priest's residence) with its own diverted channel and garden. Open seasonally and for a small fee; a quiet half-hour if the gate's up.

6. Kamo River north bank
The stream feeds down to the Kamo River; pick up the grassy bank and walk south. Herons, stepping stones, the hills behind you. Follow it to Misonobashi for the bus back into town.

Kamigamo: the northern shrine