Kurama & Kibune: over the mountain
Up the cedar slope to Kurama-dera, over the ridge, down to the river-terrace restaurants. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Kurama-dera Niomon gate
Out of *Kurama* station, where the giant red *tengu* mask greets the platform, and up to the *-ji* (temple) gate at the foot of the slope. There's a small cable car if the climb worries you, but the walking path through the cedars is the walk; take it.

2. Kurama-dera main hall
The hall sits high on the slope with the valley falling away below it. The triangle pattern set into the forecourt stone marks where the mountain's energy is said to gather — stand on it; everyone does. Catch your breath here before the ridge.

3. The mountain path over the ridge
Behind the hall the trail climbs through cedar and cypress to the saddle, past the spot where the boy who became the warrior Yoshitsune is said to have trained with the *tengu*. Roots and steps the whole way — proper shoes, not sandals. This is the heart of it.

4. Okunoin Mao-den
Near the top, the small inner hall among the tree roots — the oldest, strangest part of the mountain, dedicated to the spirit said to have come from Venus six million years ago. Believe it or not, it's the quietest shrine you'll stand in all day.

5. Kifune-jinja
Down the far side to the *jinja* (shrine) of the water god, with its red-railed stone steps and stone lanterns climbing the slope — the image every photograph of this valley is after. Buy a paper fortune and float it in the spring water to read it. Worth the descent alone.

6. The kawadoko river terraces
Along the *Kibune* stream, restaurants build *kawadoko* — wooden terraces out over the rushing water — for the summer months only. You don't have to eat (the set lunches run dear); walking the lane with the river roaring under the platforms is half the pleasure. Bus down to *Kibune-guchi* for the train.

Kurama & Kibune: over the mountain